A Slice of History - Chateau Sisqueille Rivesaltes Vin Doux Naturel 1874

1874 was the year the term Impressionism was first coined for the art movement that came to prominence in the latter part of the 19th century. It was also the year that witnessed the birth of Winston Churchill, the wartime UK Prime Minister with a penchant for Champagne, and Harry Houdini, the legendary illusionist who has since inspired generations of magicians. 

A lot has happened since then, but a vintage from that same year lives on. Today, we are offering a small slice of history, Chateau Sisquielle Rivesaltes Vin Doux Naturel 1874. While tasting old wines can sometimes be an intellectual exercise deprived of hedonistic pleasure, Vin Doux Naturel (VDN), being a fortified wine, are known to be time defying and age extremely well. 

Wine critic Neal Martin has been a vocal proponent of these wines: 

"Vins Doux Naturels are created by the addition of spirit in a process called mutage before the completion of fermentation, not dissimilar to Port although, generally, the wines are slightly less fortified and land at around 16°/17° alcohol.” 

“Intrinsic quality aside, I will repeat my assertion that hardly any category of wine matches VdNs for value. They are fairly indestructible, so in broaching old vintages, it is not like playing Russian roulette à la Burgundy. Crack a bottle open, you can leave it in the fridge and pour a nightcap over a period of time.” 

“And you need to start that stampede soon because one day it will be impossible to find mature VdN like the ones I am about to describe. The industry has withered dramatically in recent years, the nub dominated by co-operatives churning out commercial fodder for tourists who want a memento to gather dust in their drinks cabinet. Famous names that once produced immortal wines during the halcyon postwar period have disappeared or fallen into disrepair.” 

This wine was bottled in 2013, from a barrel (around 600 bottles) that was kept because this was the then new owner’s first vintage in 1874. Look no further if you are looking for a special occasion wine, or a wine to share and discuss amongst other wine lovers. Our advice? Snap this up before it becomes impossible to find mature wines of such value!

Offer subject to final confirmation and remaining unsold. E. & O. E.

Chateau Sisqueille Rivesaltes Vin Doux Naturel 1874 HKD 5,000 per 37.5cl

The 1874 Rivesaltes from Château Sesqueille comes from a single barrel bottled by Philippe Gayral in January 2013 and it was, in fact, the debut vintage from Sesqueille (sic). It is a remarkable slice of history. The bouquet belies its age with wonderful Japanese plum and scents of sloe that gradually unfold in the glass and enrapture the senses. The palate is complex and sensual with red plum at its core, flanked by white pepper, fennel and aniseed aromas that are all exquisitely defined. The finish feels elegant and pure. No wonder Gayral felt compelled to bottle this. It is now quite difficult to find but bottles might crop up from time to time. Tasted with Philippe Gayral.

Score: 97

Neal Martin, Vinous.com, June 2018