The Estate
Nestled between Domaine Coche-Dury and Domaine Roulot in the village of Meursault, the idiosyncratic estate of Jean Javillier and Fils was established in 1933 by Jacques Javillier and subsequently bequeathed to his son Jean. The estate is now run by Jean’s sons Alain and Thierry Javillier, both of whom joined in the 1980s. With plenty of old vine holdings (yes, rare 100 years old vines in Meursault!), and a traditional style of winemaking that emphasizes craftmanship and individuality over uniformity, this is a producer that should be on the radar of all connoisseurs of old school Burgundy wines.
The artisanal estate was certified organic back in the 1970s, with the family prioritising quality over quantity even back at a time when it was much tougher to make a living selling estate bottled wines from Burgundy. The Domaine now comprises of 5 hectares of vineyards across Meursault, Volnay, and Pommard, producing 20,000 bottles of wines per annum. The white wines are structured with plenty of dry extract and are medium to full-bodied, while the reds are elegant, red-fruited, and made with an infusion style that works well with delicate cuisine.
Viticulture and Vinification
Almost everything is done manually at this estate, with Alain dedicating his time entirely to the organic farming and production of wines. He experimented with clones in the past, but favours massal selection when planting new vines. In the vineyards, no chemicals are used with only sulphur and copper used for treatment against vine disease. Soils are ploughed and fertilised with compost and organic materials. Harvest is done manually with grapes in crates to avoid crushing, with Alain starting the day at 5am and finishing close to midnight at this critical time of the year.
In the cellar, there is minimal intervention with fermentation started spontaneously by natural yeast. Reds are destemmed with only free running juice used (apart from in the Bourgogne Rouge), and vatted for 18 days during a cold infusion. The reds spend 14 to 16 months in a mix of old and new barrels before ageing further in tanks for 12 months before bottling. Alain allows malolactic fermentation in whites to occur naturally. The whites spend 12 months in barrels and 4 months in tanks before bottling. Minimal amount of sulphur is added before bottling, which is done entirely by hand with gravity. The wines are normally fined but not filtered.
Wines Produced
Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Bourgogne Chardonnay
Meursault
From 60 years old vines in the en l'Ormeau vineyard. 2,400 bottles produced annually.
Meursault Vieilles Vignes
From 100 years old vines in the en l'Ormeau vineyard. 1,200 bottles produced annually.
Meursault Les Petits Charrons
From 30 years old vines. 900 bottles produced annually.
Meursault Les Tillets
From 40 years old vines. 1,600 bottles produced annually.
Meursault Poruzots Premier Cru
Only 600 bottles produced annually, from vines with an average age of 30 years old.
Volnay
From the Village portion of the les Robardelles vineyard.
Volnay Les Caillerets Premier Cru
Around 900 bottles produced annually.
Volnay Clos des Chenes Premier Cru
First planted in 1937. 1,800 bottles produced annually.
Volnay Santenots Premier Cru
From a parcel neighbouring Domaine Leroy’s. Almost impossible to find as only 300 bottles are produced annually.
Pommard Premier Cru
From a mix of two vineyards with an average age of 30 years old. 1,800 bottles produced annually.
Pommard Rugiens Premier Cru
From old vines first planted in 1934 and never farmed with chemicals. Normally the most reserved wine of the range. Only 900 bottles produced annually.
Critical Praise
“Domaine Jean Javillier & Fils is the sort of estate that this wine critic dreams of discovering. Hiding in plain site equidistant between the premises of Coche-Dury and Roulot, this small domaine—producing a mere 20,000 bottles per year—does everything the old fashioned way. Farming vineyards that have never seen chemicals and which have been certified organic since 1971, Alain Javillier favors massal selections: "We tried clones in the past, but they are not as good; I'm only going to let you taste wines made from massal selections." Reds and whites alike are harvested in small crates, with whites pressed in an old Vaslin mechanical press. The musts are chilled to 15 degrees Celsius, and Alain tastes the lees when barreling down. Twelve months maturation in barrel and four in tank ensue, followed by bottling by hand, by gravity. Reds, by contrast, ferment without temperature control, and only free-run juice is used. The result is chewy, structured whites with plenty of texture and dry extract and sumptuous, supple and exquisitely elegant reds.
..Indeed, so unspoiled is this domaine, I hesitated to write about it. But any readers nostalgic for the wines of yesteryear, before the stylistic excesses of the 1990s and the subsequent reaction against them, will find them at this address.”
William Kelley, robertparker.com
GENERAL INFORMATION
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Appellation: Meursault
Founded: 1933
Annual Production: 1,600 cases
Farming: Organic